‘MAKING OF’
Woven Material
Loom Preparation, Weaving
Weaving is a particularly difficult process to communicate as the equipment you will have may vary significantly from mine. So, I am providing you with my version of accounts, however keep in mind this may not apply to all methodologies.
In order to access this methodology smoothly, it will help you to read up on specific vocabulary and terminology around looms and weaving in advance.
ONE
Source loom.
TWO
Build loom.
THREE
Use a long table or set 2 tables together in place until the warping peg is 2m (79in) from the back warp stick on the loom.
FOUR
Clamp the back rail of the loom to the table.
FIVE
Clamp your warping peg to the other end of the table.
SIX
Use the front set of weaving rest positions.
SEVEN
Tie your first yarn to the back warp yarn behind the first slot.
EIGHT
Before threading it through it is important you place your ball of yarn in a bucket / bag on the floor by your loom to make sure it is easy to pull through the loom from a distance.
NINE
Pull the thread through the first desired slot.
TEN
Take the yarn to the warping peg at the other end of the table and loop it over.
ELEVEN
Put the threading hook through the next slot. Take the yarn under the back warp stick, catch the yarn on the hook and pull a loop through the slot. Place this loop over the warping peg in the same way as the first loop.
Retaining equal tension is key.
TWELVE
Go to the next slot, take the yarn over the back stick, through the slot and over the warping peg. Continue this way: one under, one over, one under, one over, until you have reached the desired width of your textile.
THIRTEEN
Ask a friend to hold the warp ends for you and move forward as you wind the warp onto the loom.
FOURTEEN
Stand at the back of the loom, winding the back handle towards you until the back warp goes around once.
As you are winding on, use newspaper / cardboard strips to ensure the yarn layers stay separate and the warp retains equal levels of tension throughout.
FIFTEEN
Stop when the end of the warp reaches the front roller. Cut through all the yarn loops. Do not wind further.
SIXTEEN
Take one thread from the first slot using the threading hook, pull this thread through the eye to the right of the slot. The other thread stays in the slot. Here you are building up the division of your layers that allows you to develop the sandwiching layers that build the warp of your textile.
SEVENTEEN
Divide the threads into small groups once all eyes are threaded. Take a group of threads over and around the front warp stick. Divide into two, form a V shape, tie around the top of the group in a flat single knot.
Tie the whole width of the warp in the same way to maintain equal tension.
EIGHTEEN
Knot all ties once even tension is secured.
NINETEEN
Now you must spread the warp. This is closing the spaces the knots have created. Do this by moving the warp to the front positions, start weaving by switching your beater in between the top and bottom ledges in the centre of your loom while laying the first strings of your weft. The first few lines of weft should be made with a thick and sturdy yarn, but the softer it is the better as you might want to remove this once your textile is complete.
TWENTY
Now start weaving.*
TWENTY-ONE
Continue weaving until the end. Cut the warp along the back warp stick, but allow yourself sufficient length to finish off and knot your textile with confidence.
TWENTY-TWO
Release your woven material from the front warp.
TWENTY-THREE
Tie off front ends with simple double knots.
*Weaving
In order to start weaving, all you have to do is practice, practice, practice, working essentially with trial, error, revision, and retry. The stage I am writing this, I have just begun myself so do not feel equipt to direct you, however what I will say is that working with a sense of experimentation combined with slowness and practice is key. Start with simple practices, and as you become more comfortable and aligned with the practice, play. As previously mentioned, what is attached directly to your loom is your weft, what i will attempt to introduce here is how to approach your weft.
ONE
Placing the back foot of your loom on a platform approximately 10cm high will allow you to engage in more fluid movements when weaving. I chose a large chunk of marble, carved slight ridged platforms into it which helped the loom sit flat.
TWO
When you start your weft, you want to begin by doubling up a piece of substancial thread, thicker and chunkier in girth in order to spread the warp from its knotted collectives. This is a sacrificial piece of thread.
THREE
Begin weaving.
I find that starting your weave with something thin and durable is useful when taking your woven material off the loom as it retains shape better.
I would reccomend no less than 2cm of this.
One more thing to note is the distinct difference in density of textile depending on how harshly you beat your weave down as you are going along. The softer you pull down on the ridge, the looser your weave will be, the more visibility you will get through your textile.
I attempted weaving with seaweed. It did not work.