‘Making of’
Fibre
Basho (Banana) Fibre
Banana plants thrive in tropical regions where the average temperature is 27° C and in an area of high annual rainfall. Therefore places such as Okinawa, Japan or in the Himalayas, India are key examples of location.
The older the better when selecting banana fibre plants.
If they shake a little, it means they are ready to be harvested, however, if they stand too firmly in the ground, they are not ready, do not harvest.
ONE
CUT
Cut down the banana plant near the base, ensuring that the entire stem is intact.
TWO
Remove the outer layers of the stem, including the leaf sheaths and outer bark, using a sharp knife or machete. This exposes the inner fibres of the stem which will be creamy pure white and show an intricate hexagonal infrastructure within the bark.
THREE
Save the outer layers for compost.
FOUR
You can sit your tree stem on a banana leaf if you are working on harsh ground surface. The original bottom of the tree should be on the ground, while you are stood upright with the tree bulk.
FIVE
Hold the base of the tree with your foot as you pull to keep it in place. You should not be wearing shoes.
SIX
PEEL
When removing outer layers, create a deep incision at the top in the crevice between the layer from which you are removing and pull upwards, you are not slicing the layers but allowing them to separate naturally. Tension here is key as it allows the fibres to separate at organic levels.
The inner tree is formed in a spiral from, so you will not be able to separate them exactly, however this is also why tension when pulling the layers apart is so important.
SEVEN
As you gradually remove the layers from the tree, separate them into the outer layer (first inch) - hard fibre, the next inner layer - medium fibre, and the core - soft fibre as the fibre variation within is great.
EIGHT
Hold these up together by folding your fibre, in a group, into thirds and using an excess string of fibre to tie a knot around them, holding it together
TEN
Allow to soak for 40 minutes after boiling.
ELEVEN
Now you separate the fibres from the stem:
TWELVE
The outer layers of the stem are peeled away, revealing the long, fibrous strands within. Use a bamboo shaving/combing tool that creates a tweezer-like formation, use this to shave/comb the excess plant tissue away.
The pincer should be held with a firm grip that separates different fibrous sections but not too tightly splitting all fibres.
THIRTEEN
Hold the top of the fibre strip, running the tool down the fibre, removing excess pulp like fibre and revealing thinner, shinier streams of material.
As you do this, rest them in a consistent direction from root to tip on a banana leaf to keep them clean.
It can be useful to place your extracted fibre on a banana leaf as you are going through your fibre to keep it clean.
FOURTEEN
Keep a bowl of excess fibre at the other end of your space to preserve the excess fibre as this can have other uses, such as paper making.
Direction of placement is important because when developing fibre into yarn the thickness of fibre will vary from the bottom to top of what was the original tree bulk.
FIFTEEN
Rinse the extracted fibres thoroughly in clean water.
SIXTEEN
Hang sporadically in the sun or in a well-ventilated area.
Fibres will again undergo layers of separation and drying in order to reduce them to thread thickness.
SEVENTEEN
Soak the fibres in water for a few hours or overnight to soften them. This step will make the fibres more pliable and easier to work with.
EIGHTEEN
Collect your fibre strands by winding them around your hand into a small hank, do this individually so they are no thicker than 1/2cm per hank.
NINETEEN
Collect all fibre.
TWENTY
Take into clean space, place in small container of water.
TWENTY-ONE
After soaking, gently separate the individual fibres from the bunch, ensuring they are evenly spread out.
TWENTY-TWO
Hold a strip of fibre at both ends, with one hand hold them together, and the other separate them as if you are purposeful fraying a piece of twisted string. This fraying like action separates the fibres from one another organically. It should be obvious which end you should start at as the fibres will already be separating naturally from the drying processes.
Tension between ends separates and frays the fibres into natural segments.
TWENTY-THREE
Repeat.
TWENTY-FOUR
When separating fibres into thread thickness, wind onto an empty bobbin, when you finish one strip of separated fibre, join to the next strip but at the opposing end. So you are essentially joining the top of the tree, to the bottom, then the bottom to the top, this will equal out the varying thicknesses of fibre when creating one strip of yarn.
TWENTY-FIVE
Join by twistig:
Water will help you, but a minuscule amount. If you touch your tongue with your finger, this is too much moisture.
TWENTY-SIX
Gently catch the fibres in between your index finger and thumb.
TWENTY-SEVEN
Depending on which is your dominant hand, (right handed:) extend your left arm slowly, holding the silk strand in the crevice of your index finger when its coiled up, so as to not apply excessive pressure. While doing this, perform a light twist between your index finger and thumb in your right hand. While you should not apply too much pressure as to damage the fibres, enough rub should occur to twist the fibres together, forming your yarn.
Keep a continuous thickness. Consistency is key to the stability of the yarn.
TWENTY-EIGHT
Continue.
TWENTY-NINE
Gently spin onto bobbin.
THIRTY
Once you have spun the fibres into thread, allow to dry thoroughly.
Store out of sunlight.
Ramie (Linen) Fibre, Yarn
Ramie is another plant that is native to eastern Asia and valued for its strong and durable fibers.
ONE
It can vary depending on the height of the plant, however traditionally cutting just above the first leaves is ideal.
TWO
Gather all your plant fibres together and remove all leaves from the stems.
THREE
Once gathered clean stems.
FOUR
Take one stem, find a visible, natural notch / dent in the stem and using the bamboo fibre tool, pull down from this point.
FIVE
This will separate different segments of fibre, the outer layer, and the inside.
Keep these separate
SIX
The inside of the steam is excess fibre, and the outer layers are the important part, the fine fibre.
SEVEN
Using the fibre tool, strip these different sections of stem off any excess pulpy fibre.
EIGHT
Do not split the stem at any point, this will split and Frey the fibres within and compromise the strength and integrity of your yarn.
NINE
Then do the same again with your fibre tool, down the opposing half of your stem.
TEN
You should be left with a shiny, stringy like substance.
ELEVEN
Repeat this 2/3 times to extract enough fibre but not too much to damage the inner layers when they are not ready.
TWELVE
Apply to all stems.
THIRTEEN
Allow these to soak for 40 minutes, submerged in water.
FOURTEEN
Hold the fibres down in the water with a heavy rock otherwise they will float to the top and tangle.
FIFTEEN
Repeat this process.
SIXTEEN
Hold a strip of fibre at both ends, with one hand hold them together, and pull using the bamboo tool.
SEVENTEEN
Again, hold the tool tight enough so you are removing excess fibrous pulp, but not too tight as to fray and damage what will be your fibre yarn.
EIGHTEEN
Place on a banana leaf in consistent strands.
NINETEEN
Once completed, compost your excess pulp.
TWENTY
Hang up fibres.
TWENTY-ONE
Rinse the extracted fibres thoroughly in clean water.
TWENTY-TWO
Hang sporadically in the sun or in a well-ventilated area.
Fibres will again undergo layers of separation and drying in order to reduce them to thread thickness.
TWENTY-THREE
Soak the fibres in water for a few hours or overnight to soften them. This step will make the fibres more pliable and easier to work with.
TWENTY-FOUR
Collect your fibre strands by winding them around your hand into a small hank, do this individually so they are no thicker than 1/2cm per hank.
TWENTY-FIVE
Collect all fibre.
TWENTY-SIX
Take into clean space, place in small container of water.
TWENTY-SEVEN
After soaking, gently separate the individual fibres from the bunch, ensuring they are evenly spread out.
TWENTY-EIGHT
Hold a strip of fibre at both ends, with one hand hold them together, and the other separate them as if you are purposeful fraying a piece of twisted string. This fraying like action separates the fibres from one another organically. It should be obvious which end you should start at as the fibres will already be separating naturally from the drying processes.
Tension between ends separates and frays the fibres into natural segments.
TWENTY-NINE
Repeat.
THIRTY
When separating fibres into thread thickness, wind onto an empty bobbin, when you finish one strip of separated fibre, join to the next strip but at the opposing end. So you are essentially joining the top of the tree, to the bottom, then the bottom to the top, this will equal out the varying thicknesses of fibre when creating one strip of yarn.
THIRTY-ONE
Join by twisting:
Water will help you, but a minuscule amount. If you touch your tongue with your finger, this is too much moisture.
THIRTY-TWO
Gently catch the fibres in between your index finger and thumb.
THIRTY-THREE
Depending on which is your dominant hand, (right handed:) extend your left arm slowly, holding the silk strand in the crevice of your index finger when its coiled up, so as to not apply excessive pressure. While doing this, perform a light twist between your index finger and thumb in your right hand. While you should not apply too much pressure as to damage the fibres, enough rub should occur to twist the fibres together, forming your yarn.
Keep a continuous thickness. Consistency is key to the stability of the yarn.
THIRTY-FOUR
Continue.
THIRTY-FIVE
Gently spin onto bobbin.
THIRTY-SIX
Once you have spun the fibres into thread, allow to dry thoroughly.
Store out of sunlight.
Harvesting, Stinging Nettles
ONE
Locate areas where stinging nettles grow abundantly, in moist, fertile soil along riverbanks, woodland edges, they also often grow around places such as the edge of train tracks or behind buildings, untamed.
TWO
Ideally, choose young, tender nettle plants, about knee-high.
THREE
Use a sharp utensil to snip off the top few inches of the nettle plants, just above a set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and allows for regrowth for future harvests.
FOUR
Carefully collect the nettle tops in a basket or bag, taking care not to crush the leaves and release the stinging hairs.
FIVE
Immediately process nettles to ensure freshness.
Stinging Nettle Fibre Extract
ONE
I chose to boil them - cut up your fibres as you are placing them in the pan, to reduce fibre length as this might break your equipment.
TWO
Boil for 25-30 minutes.
THREE
Rinse the harvested nettles thoroughly under cold water to remove any dirt or debris, but keep original water.
FOUR
Blend in their original water.
FIVE
Strain through relatively open-weave fabric/material, a sieve will lose fibre and extract too much water - this is the nettle extract. Do so by cupping your hand, running it through the gathered material ontop of your cheese cloth. Continuous movement is key in order to ensure the fibres dont clog up your cloth.
Pressing and squeezing your extract ingredient speeds up this process.
SIX
Apply to your mould by separating the fibres into sections, applying them to your non-stick mould (or using cling film), pressing them into shape, and joining them in patchwork pieces.
SEVEN
Dehydrate at 65-70 Celcius for 24 hours minimum.
Stinging Nettle Fibre Yarn
ONE
Separate Nettle leaves from your stalk.
TWO
Soak in freshly boiled water.
THREE
Leave for 24 hours.
FOUR
Pick up individual stalks one by one, use bamboo tweezer tool to comb excess plant fibre off the main stalk.
FIVE
Soak extracted fibre strips in water.
SIX
Shave again.
SEVEN
Hang to dry but allow it to do so naturally, do not use heat or dehydration.
Stinging Nettle Ink
ONE
Take Nettle leaves, separated from stalk.
TWO
Clean.
THREE
Submerge in freshly boiled water.
FOUR
Allow to sit for 24 hours.
FIVE
Bring to a simmering boil.
SIX
Leave for 15 minutes.
SEVEN
Sit to stew for 24 hours.
EIGHT
Bring to a simmering boil.
NINE
Leave for 15 minutes.
TEN
After simmering, remove the pot from the heat and allow the liquid to cool down.
ELEVEN
Strain the liquid using a sieve or muslin cloth to separate the liquid from the extract.
Keep the extract for whole nettle fibre extract bulk.
Liquid is your ink base.
If you want a more concentrated ink, you can return the strained liquid to the pot and simmer it until it reduces by about half.
TWELVE
(Optional) add gum arabic.
Throughout these processes, if there is ever any excess water or material, it should undergo processes of refinement to then be kept in order to either be repurposed or composted.